— Sunday July 29, 2001 Leave Paris on early afternoon TGV to Lyon. Check in Hotel “Cour des Loges” or “Villa Florentine.” Loges is in the heart of “Vieux Lyon,” the renaissance Old City. Florentine perches on hilltop, overlooks entire metropolis. Both are Relais & Châteaux. Dinner at Le Sud, Paul Bocuses “offspring” just off Lyon’s main square. [D]

Monday July 30 From Lyon, short ride to Ampuis, town in the center of the famous Côte Rôtie. Visit Guigal, best-known [and best] grower in the northern Rhone. Barrel-tasting of his priceless “La Mouline” “La Turque” and “La Londonne” vineyards. We’ll also visit Georges Vernay, pioneer of the viognier grape variety. Tasting lunch at La Reserve in Condrieu. Return to Lyon. Dinner at Cafe des Federations, the most “authentic” of the Lyon bistros, which are called bouchons, literally, “corks.” It’s a table d’hôte dinner, 7 courses, you pick your main course but everything else just keeps a-comin! Fabulous! [B, L, D]

Tuesday July 31 Leave Lyon late AM. Travel to Valence. Lunch at Auberge du Pin [terrific wine list]. Continue to Hermitage. Afternoon visits with Jaboulet, Chapoutier, Alain Graillot. Early evening arrival in Avignon. Five nights at Hotel Europe, renaissance palace now a 55-room hotel. Magnificent decor. Dinner on the main square at Les Domaines. Excellent wine bar. [B, L, D]

Wednesday Aug 1 To Chateauneuf-du-Pape! Visit and tasting at Ch. Beaucastel, plus Vieux Télégraphe. After lunch in Orange [on own], visit the best-preserved Roman amphitheater in Europe; in Avignon, tour the famous Papal Palace. Dinner with provençale specialties at Brunel. [B, D]

Thursday Aug 2 Cotes du Rhone villages. At Dom. Rocher in Cairanne, Tony Bird and his dogs demonstrate truffle hunting. Lunch at country restaurant. Visit and tasting at Domaine Monardière. Dinner at hotel [one-star in Michelin]. [B, L, D]

Friday Aug 3 Morning visit Domaine Trévallon [best reds & whites in Provence, thanks to unique terroir]. Wander through Saint Rémy de Provence. Lunch at two-star Baumanière, drink wine from Ch. Romarin, owned by chef Jean-André Charial. Afternoon visit to the hilltop ruins of Les Baux. Dinner on own. [B, L]