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Eating Well in France
Gourmet Dining from Bordeaux to the Mediterranean
This “moveable feast” follows the Garonne upstream and Aude downstream through the southwest of France. From Bordeaux, a zig-zag that catches the finest restaurants between the Atlantic and Mediterranean coasts. You savor the bounty of the terroir, prepared by elite chefs, whose names include Michel Guérard, Dominique Toulousy and the Pourcel twins.
Along the way, you sample each region’s most celebrated wines in the midst of the harvest. You sleep in the most magical hostelleries. You partake in tastings of exquisite plum brandy and rare Armangac. You visit historic Cathar fortresses, you marvel at the Mediterranean coastline.
It’s a week of the finest dining, yet we’ll make sure you don’t feel overstuffed. Instead, prepare for an utterly seductive experience and a delight for the senses.
Sunday
On our first day we will meet in Bordeaux in the early afternoon, then drive to our first hotel, Nestled in a lovely valley in the foothills of the Pyrennes, the exclusive spa resort of Eugénie les Bains is named after the Empress Eugénie, who was the first to make it fashionable. Its magnificent hotel, with ornate wrought-iron balconies and broad shady terraces, stands amid groves of pine and plane trees. Its grounds contain palms, orange and banana trees, magnolias, roses, bamboo, as well as a huge herb garden, gleaming white statues of nymphs, smooth green lawns, an azure pool, a gazebo, and tennis courts.
The hotel houses a truly exceptional restaurant, Les Prés d'Eugénie *** (Michelin), with a truly exceptional chef, Michel Guerard. Its three stars are the highest rating that Michelin awards.
Our menu is not yet firmed up, but we can guarantee you it will be an experience to treasure. One recent meal was as follows:
Following delicious canapes, six exquisite courses beginning with foie gras. A delicate confection of asparagus tips, truffles, and wild mushrooms was followed by half a lobster, smoked and then lightly cooked on a special charcoal grill. Then the main course, meltingly tender duck, seasonal fruit sorbets, and delicious hand-made chocolates with perfect coffee concluded the meal.
Wine was from Michel Guerard's own vineyards, and the chef himself in immaculate whites appeared to greet his fortunate guests.
Monday
The following morning we will explore the area south of Agen, the Landes, which is famous for its fruit confiseries, plum brandy, and eau-de-vie. We will eat a picnic or a light lunch together en route. Our overnight stop is at l'Aubergade in the hilltop village of Puymirol, outside Agen.** (Michelin) outside Agen. Chef Michel Trama offers spectacular dishes at this two-star restaurant that blend old and new, with a style that's all his own...partly minimalist modern, partly lush, always inventive.
Tuesday
The following morning we will explore the Armagnac country to the east. This fine brandy, so aromatic that many connoisseurs prefer sniffing its aroma even to drinking it, is a unique expression of the South-West's cosmopolitan, epicurean history and culture. The Romans planted the vines, the Moors introduced the distilling process, and the technique of storage in barrels came from the Gauls.
We will stay in the Grand Hotel de l'Opéra ** (Michelin) in Toulouse. Our brilliant and genial chef will be Dominique Toulousy. To see one of his menus, just click on the red Michelin stars!
Wednesday
This night we will be staying in the spectacular historic walled city of Carcassonne, which was occupied and defended since before the Romans and took on roughly its present shape in the twelfth century.
Our hotel is the prestigious Hotel de la Cité, and we will be eating in its truly exceptional restaurant, La Barbacane ('the castle keep')* (Michelin), with its neo-Gothic architecture and garden over the city ramparts. Chef Michel del Burgo offers an inspired personal cuisine based on the 'terroir' - an untranslatable French term meaning the distinctive food and drink of an area and a people, and the history and folkways from which they emerge.
Thursday
Today our route takes us through the ancient Roman city of Narbonne, whose historical and artistic heritage we will probably take some time to enjoy.
Then we will take the beautiful coastal drive down to Collioure, which has not only wine of exceptional interest and quality but also a magnificent bay on the Mediterranean. We will enjoy a charming dinner on the lovely terrace of Les Trois Mas * while looking out across the bay into the sea's deep blue. Afterwards, some of us may take the opportunity to relax after our travels in the hotel's magnificent hot tub.
Friday
Recently awarded a third Michelin star, the Restaurant Le Jardin des Sens in Montpellier offers a uniquely restrained yet utterly seductive experience. The modern, understated refinement and elegance of the dining room are an extension of the innovative dishes created by the chefs, twin brothers Laurent and Jacques Pourcel. Commited to coaxing out every nuance of natural flavors from each element in order to creates an unparalleled harmony of taste, the Pourcels possess an almost religious devotion to excellence.
This visit is the climax of our tour. There will be plenty of time to take the high-speed train (TGV) back to Paris.
Also Available: Paris VIP Welcome
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